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Characteristics Of Quality Inkjet Paper For Printing Photos

If you've decided to forego the long lines at your drug store's digital printing kiosk, and have decided to take your printing matters in your own hands, congratulations!

It's truly liberating to have the freedom to print your photos on your schedule, from the comfort of your home or office. But home printing isn't as simple as it should be. If you choose the wrong type of paper, you could end up with less than professional results, and end up back at the dreaded drug store kiosk before you know it.

The type of paper you need for professional results from home is photo quality inkjet paper. But what makes photo inkjet paper quality? There are several identifying characteristics that make inkjet paper ideal for professional photo results. When you're more familiar with the criteria that make a good paper, so good, the once-overwhelming selection process will be a piece of cake.

- Weight.

Paper weight is usually expressed in grams per square meter (g/m2). Different types of paper have different weights to them. Most photo quality inkjet paper is found to be in the 90 to 270 g/m2 range. The term "heavyweight" often found on paper labels doesn't always mean a heavier paper, as you will see if you compare the weight with other similar papers.

- Opacity.

This term refers how see-through the paper is when you hold it up to a light source. The less you're able to see through the paper, the less likely images will bleed to the other side. Photo quality inkjet paper, usually has a high opacity. Just think about the photos you get back from the drug store. You can't see the ink through the back of those, as their usually printed on a glossy thick paper. To replicate these results, inkjet glossy photo paper is your best bet.

- Caliper.

Photo quality inkjet paper is generally thicker than standard printing paper. In the printing world, thickness is known as caliper and is extremely important in obtaining professional results. Typical photo quality inkjet paper caliper may be anywhere from a thin 4.3 mil to 10.4 mil. Good photo paper is usually 7 to 10 mils thick.

- Matte Finish.

Images printed on matte paper appear non-reflective and soft. Matte finish inkjet photo paper is different from regular inkjet paper in that it's thicker so it can handle the heavy ink volume of photos. Some people enjoy using matte finish paper because it's printable on both sides.

- Glossy Finish.

The coating on glossy inkjet paper gives your photos the authentic, professional look that most people printing from home desire. Glossy inkjet paper dries slowly because of the coating not allowing the ink to absorb immediately, so when you're printing with these, patience is a virtue. There are several sub-categories to glossy finish paper including: semi-gloss, high-gloss, gloss and soft gloss, each referring to the amount of shine the paper puts off.

Hopefully, identifying these quality inkjet photo paper characteristics helps you select a good paper that will give you the results you're looking for.

About the Author

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How to get the same soft look in a photo?

I'm not sure if you're familiar with Nirrimi's photography, but being a budding photographer myself, I know all about it. I love the old/soft retro feel of her fashion photos and I was wondering how I could achieve that seem breezy, pastel feel. Here's her website: http://nirrimiphotography.carbonmade.com/

I own Photoshop Elements 3, and I'm pretty well trained so I could follow any tutorials or directions you have. Even if it's for a different version, I'm sure I can adapt it. I'm helping my friend with her fashion photography and she's shooting for the same springy, summery look as those photos.

Thanks for the help!

I agree with the first answerer. I was going to recommend that you look into plugins. Actions are good, too, except with both actions and plugins you might have problems with them working on Elements 3 because of the coding changes in the newer versions of both Elements and Photoshop. I prefer plugins to actions because plugins usually give the user more control.

You might be able to tweak these tutorials to get the effect you want.

http://www.alibony.com/pse/031508postcard.html

http://www.smashingmagazine.com/2008/10/14/30-beautiful-vintageretro-photoshop-tutorials/

Here are some really nice plugins (free;-). They give you a lot of controls. Check out Process FX, Bleach Bypass and Beautifier. Each of the examples uses only the plugins' defaults so other looks are possible with each one.

http://www.redpawmedia.com/processfx.html

You use Windows Explorer to install plugins into Elements' Plugins folder. I don't know what operating system you're using. Here's the path for Vista, it should be similar for other Windows machines. Right click on the unzipped plugin's folder and copy.
Computer>C:>Program Files>Adobe> Photoshop Elements 3.0>Plugins

Just keep clicking the + signs to expand each level of the pathway. When you get to the Plugins folder, double click it to open it. Right click on an empty space in the pane and click Paste. The next time you open an image in Elements, the plugins will be at the bottom of the Filter menu listed by software company...so the above plugins will be listed under Red Paw.

If a plugin doesn't work, just go back and find it in the Plugins folder, right click on it and click Delete.

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Controlling Vibration On Helicam - Aerial Photo Asia

Shaking - the photographer's curse
Shaking is an issue with the intention of all aerial photographers have to manage, whether they utilize full-size aircraft, or radio-controlled models. In both cases, there is frequently an engine, whose vibrations can effortlessly discover their technique to the camera by the airframe, resulting in blurry photos. At the same time as it is potential to reduce blur through the operate of high shutter speeds, the effect is less latitude through option of film speeds and aperture settings. Why be forced to implement "fast" film that tends to be extra grainy and have a lesser amount of contrast? Why be forced to apply a wide-open aperture setting that will lower sharpness? (A lens commonly performs finest a a small amount of stops back from maximum aperture.) Lying on top of all of this, a vibration, if terrible enough, can still blur a photograph taken by a high shutter speed. It can also harm your camera. The ending: vibration control is imperative!

A closer look
How do we deal with it? Expert aerial photographers who utilize light planes commonly struggle to formulate certain that no part of their upper body is in get in touch with with the aircraft. In effect, they are using their torso as a shock-absorber. But you wish for to do aerial photography from your model, right? The necessary steps to control vibration rely  on what sort of shaking is being created. If it's a plane, we are challenging with shaking from the engine and propeller (which obviously ought to be balanced along with possible). This is a reasonably high frequency vibration. At a throttle setting of 12000 RPM, this equates to 200 Hz (cycles per second).

The circumstances with a model helicopter is more complicated. The vibration sources are engine, tail rotor and, worst of all, the main rotor. In a "sixty" dimension helicopter, these would be in the vicinity of 240 Hz, 150 Hz and 27 Hz respectively.

You can see that the main rotor is by far the lowest frequency source. Is this significant? Why not?, because low frequencies are the hardest to kill. We can all link up to the trouble of getting to sleep at what time the somebody in the building has their hi-fi cranked up, along with the whole you be able to hear is the bass. Just the bass gets through, because low frequencies are improved capable to defeat the inertia of mass - in this situation, the walls of your room. Vibration frequency
The same effects of frequency are observed while trying to isolate an object from a source of vibration. Think of a brick dangling from your hand via a heavy-duty rubber band. Move your hand up and down quickly, and the brick barely moves. Now move up and down slowly and the brick follows you. The low frequencies get throughout more without problems. Softness
Continuing our inspiration try out with the brick, here's an essential point: the more weak the rubber band, the better the brick is protected from movement. However it also creates it harder to control. Imagine trying to hold a brick around with a long thin rubber band! We will return to this consideration very shortly.

Mass
Imagin if we drastically reduced the mass by replacing the brick by a sugar cube? We'd acquire that, with its extraordinarily low inertia, the cube would shift around very without difficulty. If we require to separate it from the movement of our hand, an tremendously thin rubber band would be required.

To review these points:
Frequency, softness also mass have an effect on the vibration isolation of the system.

Implementing this to our circumstances Nowadays to the Digital Camera. Mount it solidly to your helicopter or plane, as well as all the frequencies will obtain to it. Mount it instead with something slightly flexible, and you will create to remove the high frequencies. Possibly the engine vibrations will still get through, but they'll be reduced in amplitude, and you will have smoothed out the "spikes", that is, the nasty high frequency harmonics. This is the common result of commercially available engine mounts designed to reduce shaking. Soften the mount further, along with you'll obtain to the end where the camera does not sense the engine vibration at all! The vibration movements are occurrence too fast for the soft mount to transmit them in addition to get over the camera's inertia.

If it's a plane, then all well as well as good quality. A helicopter, since we've stated, has extra lower frequencies. We tend to  have to support the camera through a soft sufficient mount that will filter out all the frequencies down to that of the main rotor. This requires a softer mounting technique than a plane.

How soft?
Why not leave all the way, after that create a super-soft mounting system with plenty of thin rubber bands? This raises an important point. There is certainly a boundary to the amount of softness needed. The camera will begin to swing about, making aiming difficult plus potentially introducing motion blur. A compromise should be reached. Where is the proper compromise? The respond relies upon on the camera's weight. For illustration, someone flying a light point-and-shoot camera will need a very soft, flexible attachment method to stop vibration (like the sugar cube). At the other extreme, if you arrange to carry a heavy medium format camera including a pan/tilt/roll mount and video assist, things are a bit distinctive.

A firmer mounting system will be acceptable, thanks to the high mass and resultant inertia of the system. The extra firmness will moreover be necessary to prevent the system from swinging excessively (like the brick).

Your next issue is probably "Well, how do I identify if that is excessively soft or too rigid?"

It's simple to answer. Make it as soft as you are comfortable {with given the need to restrict unnecessary movement. Since a guidebook, you probably wouldn't ever require your camera equipment to move more than an inch in any direction.

About the Author

This article has been contributed by Aerial Photo Asia (www.aerialphotoasia.com) as Professional Aerial Photography Services in Bali,Indonesia & Asia Region.This is a guide focused on the all things you should known about Aerial Photography using Helicam. If you are passionate about Aerial Photography then Sign Up to its RSS or FREE Digital wedding newsletter to receive more tips.

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